上海人对复兴东路的了解,应该还是老城厢曾经的大东门和老西门,这是曾经的老城厢城墙上的两道城门,这两道城门恰好在这条路的两头,复兴东路恰好在原来的上海县城贯通而过,这条路的两侧有着密集的居民区,在还没有租界那些年时,这里就已经是老上海人集中的生活区。
The people of Shanghai’s understanding of East Fuxing Road is still tied to the former East Gate and West Gate of the old town. These two gates were once part of the old town’s city wall, and they happened to stand at both ends of this road. East Fuxing Road runs right through the original Shanghai county seat. Dense residential areas line both sides of the road; even in the years before the concession era, this area was already a concentrated living quarter for the old Shanghai locals.
据资料查询明清时期,中华路以东的那段有一个比较俗气的名字“大码头大街”,清同治年间,上海知县叶廷眷在肇嘉浜(今白渡路)建 “江海南关”,简称 “南关”。因码头规模较大,当地人俗称 “大码头”,从大码头至大东门外修筑的马路便被命名为大码头大街。而中华路以内的则是徐家汇那边下来的肇家浜河道下游段。到了1913年肇家浜东段被填埋,和周边几条小路一起辟筑为肇嘉路,1945年它和大码头大街一起统称为复兴东路沿用至今。
According to historical records, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, the section of the road east of Zhonghua Road had a rather down-to-earth name – “Damatou Street” (literally “Great Wharf Street”). During the Tongzhi reign of the Qing Dynasty, Ye Tingjuan, the magistrate of Shanghai County, built the “Jianghai South Gate” (commonly known as “South Gate”) on Zhaojiabang (now Baidu Road). Due to the large scale of the wharf, local people commonly referred to it as the “Great Wharf” (Damatou). The road constructed from this wharf to the outside of the East Gate was thus named Damatou Street.
As for the area within Zhonghua Road, it was the lower reaches of the Zhaojiabang watercourse, which extended from the Xujiahui area. In 1913, the eastern section of Zhaojiabang was filled in, and together with several nearby small roads, it was developed into Zhaojia Road. In 1945, Zhaojia Road and Damatou Street were collectively renamed East Fuxing Road, a name that has been in use to this day.
现在的复兴东路是从黄浦江这里的复兴东路轮渡开始,对岸的东昌路轮渡实际上分成两个方向对开,另一头是到金陵东路轮渡站。
Today, East Fuxing Road starts from the East Fuxing Road Ferry Terminal near the Huangpu River. On the opposite bank, the Dongchang Road Ferry Terminal actually operates ferries in two directions; the other route heads to the East Jinling Road Ferry Terminal.
早年的复兴东路轮渡也不及十六铺轮渡热闹,所以大部分上海人只了解十六铺,对复兴东路还有轮渡站并不感冒。
In the early years, the East Fuxing Road Ferry was not as bustling as the Shiliupu Ferry. Therefore, most Shanghai locals were only familiar with Shiliupu and showed little interest in the fact that there was also a ferry terminal on East Fuxing Road.
十六铺是早年进出上海除了铁路之外的主要集散点,它基本上承担了除海运外的大部分人员和货物的运输,以至于上海人嘲讽某人不领风情时会讲:“侬是十六铺上来的”。
In the early years, Shiliupu was a major distribution hub for people entering and exiting Shanghai, second only to railway stations. It was primarily responsible for transporting most of the people and goods other than those carried by ocean shipping. This is why Shanghai locals, when teasing someone for being unromantic or insensitive to subtle emotions, would say: (Nong shi Shiliupu shanglai de / You must have come from Shiliupu).
中山东二路600号的外滩金融中心
其实十六铺的客运码头是在东门路至新开河一侧,而苏北来的客轮靠在东门路南面的大达码头,客运码头的班次毕竟有限,真正每天川流不息的人流却是东门路轮渡站,当时叫“东东线”,就是浦西的东门路到浦东的东昌路。
In fact, the passenger terminal of Shiliupu was located on the side from Dongmen Road to Xinkai River. Meanwhile, passenger ships coming from northern Jiangsu (Subei) docked at Dada Wharf, which was south of Dongmen Road. After all, the number of passenger services at the terminal was limited; the real place with a constant stream of people every day was the Dongmen Road Ferry Terminal. Back then, this ferry route was called the “Dong-Dong Line” – referring to the route from Dongmen Road in Puxi to Dongchang Road in Pudong.
复兴东路轮渡站的南面在改革开放后一度成为上海除曹安市场以外的水果批发市场,这些水果市场一直延伸到董家渡轮渡站,承担了南市区、黄浦区、卢湾区、虹口区乃至杨浦区在内的水果零售市场的货源。
After the reform and opening-up, the area south of the East Fuxing Road Ferry Terminal once became Shanghai’s major fruit wholesale market, second only to the Cao’an Market. These fruit markets extended all the way to the Dongjiadu Ferry Terminal and supplied the fruit retail markets in Nanshi District, Huangpu District, Luwan District, Hongkou District, and even Yangpu District.
随着外滩新的定位向南发展,包括十六铺在内的所有码头仓储设施都被清除,原有熙熙攘攘的市井气突然消失,好像基本上没有什么摄影师拍摄记录过这里曾经的繁华,我想如果放到现在,那这里的街拍肯定要比“武安新镇”来得精彩。
As the Bund’s new positioning drives its development southward, all dock and warehouse facilities—including those in Shiliupu—have been cleared away. The bustling, vibrant atmosphere of the old marketplace vanished abruptly, and it seems that few photographers ever documented the prosperity this area once held. I can’t help but think that if such a scene existed today, street photography here would surely be far more fascinating than that of “Wu’an New Town”.
门牌号为中山南路268-2号东方国际金融大厦就在复兴东路一侧,中山南路上有天桥,但是行人稀少。
现在的复兴东路中山南路一侧已经是上海期货交易所的大楼,这是外滩金融中心定位的延续部分,除了上班族,已经很少有人往这边走,最近重新提起备受冷落的老码头,显然也是它与外滩的观光人流脱节,无法导入和聚集人气有关。

Today, on the side of East Fuxing Road adjacent to South Zhongshan Road stands the building of the Shanghai Futures Exchange. This is an extension of the Bund’s positioning as a financial center. Apart from office workers, few people come to this area nowadays. The recent renewed discussion about the long-neglected old wharf is clearly related to the fact that it is disconnected from the tourist flow of the Bund, making it unable to attract and gather crowds.
向西走去,刚刚改革开放时,苏北人贩运鸡蛋进上海的外咸瓜街市场早就高楼林立,这些场景如今只有在部分电视剧上还能在我们这代人心中泛起一丝涟漪。
Walking westward, the Wa Xianggua Street Market—where people from northern Jiangsu (Subei) transported and sold eggs into Shanghai in the early days of reform and opening-up—is now lined with tall buildings. Today, such scenes can only be seen in some TV dramas, which still stir a faint trace of nostalgia in the hearts of our generation.
复兴东路中华路交叉口处是早年有城墙的年代的朝宗门,因为位于当时上海县城正东,又俗称大东门,拆除城墙后民众还是习惯叫这一地区为大东门。而相对应的就是上海县城西面的仪凤门,位置在现在的复兴东路中华路口,由于北侧后来又开了一个城门,被称为小西门,这里也就成了民众口中的老西门。
The intersection of East Fuxing Road and Zhonghua Road was once the Chaozong Gate during the era when Shanghai’s old town was surrounded by city walls. Since it was located directly east of the then Shanghai County seat, it was commonly known as the “East Gate” (Dadongmen). Even after the city wall was demolished, local people still habitually referred to this area as Dadongmen.
The corresponding gate on the west side of the old Shanghai County seat was the Yifeng Gate, which stood at the current intersection of East Fuxing Road and Zhonghua Road. Later, another gate was built to the north of this location and named the “Small West Gate” (Xiaoximen). As a result, the original Yifeng Gate area became known among locals as the “Old West Gate” (Laoximen).
中华路北侧的东街原来做过废旧二手电器市场,前些年也被清理了,南侧的面筋弄则是喜欢扫街的朋友进入老城厢拍摄的主要入口端,从这里进去可以一路拍摄巡道街、乔家路等市井画面,探得更深的可以寻到天灯弄书隐楼、金旗杆弄等明清时期的建筑。
The East Street, located on the north side of Zhonghua Road, was once a second-hand and used electrical appliances market, but it was also cleared out a few years ago. On the south side of Zhonghua Road, Mianjin Lane serves as the main entry point for street photography enthusiasts looking to shoot in the old town. From here, one can walk and take photos of the everyday scenes along Xundao Street and Qiaojia Road. Those who explore further can find ancient buildings from the Ming and Qing dynasties, such as the Shuyin Tower in Tiandeng Lane and structures in Jinqigan Lane.
复兴东路越江隧道是为了减轻延安东路越江隧道的压力而建,而且直接在河南南路下面也做了通道,反正整条路都在改造,一次性打通要比今后修修补补来得强。现在还经常能够在恶劣天气或深夜解决助动车的过江问题。
The East Fuxing Road River-Crossing Tunnel was built to relieve the traffic pressure on the East Yan’an Road River-Crossing Tunnel. Additionally, a passage was constructed directly beneath South Henan Road. Since the entire road was undergoing reconstruction anyway, creating a through connection in one go is better than making piecemeal repairs in the future. To this day, it still frequently serves as a solution for mopeds to cross the river during severe weather or late at night.
由于在复兴东路拓宽前也没来得及做记录,所以大部分人只记录了目前能看到的场景,这座城市在迅速的变迁,恐怕没人能跟得上它的变化节奏。
Since no records were made in time before the widening of East Fuxing Road, most people have only documented the scenes visible today. As this city undergoes rapid changes, it seems no one can keep up with the pace of its transformation.
我尽可能地在最近几年把复兴东路两侧土地征收前的状态做一份记录,采用的方式是视频加图像,部分特别重要的会拍摄特写,当然难免会有所遗漏。
In recent years, I have tried my best to document the state of the land on both sides of East Fuxing Road before it was expropriated. The method I use is a combination of videos and images, and I take close-up shots of some particularly important parts. Of course, omissions are unavoidable.
目前靠近老西门北侧的金家坊随着周边露香园路楼盘热卖,土地价值凸显,新的楼盘正在迅速崛起,在这个地块中,部分被认为值得留存的老房子采用新型的移位方式予以保留,这也许是目前对老建筑保存最好的一个方式了。
Currently, with the booming sales of real estate projects along Luxiangyuan Road in the surrounding area, the land value of Jinjiafang, located near the north side of Laoximen (Old West Gate), has become increasingly prominent, and new real estate projects are springing up rapidly. Within this land parcel, some old houses deemed worthy of preservation have been retained using a new-type building relocation method. This is perhaps the best way to preserve old buildings at present.
我专门写过老西门的内容,这里承载了周边较大范围老上海人的记忆,它涉及到的远远不是原来城墙上的那道门,而是一个区域概念,目前大拆大建后的区域将永远不可能出现原来的繁华,因为新入住那些低容积率豪宅的居民与原来的消费结构完全不同。
I have written specifically about Laoximen (Old West Gate). This place carries the memories of a large number of long-term Shanghai residents in the surrounding area. What it represents is far more than just that old gate which once stood on the city wall—it is, in fact, a regional concept. The area, now after large-scale demolition and reconstruction, will never be able to regain its former prosperity. This is because the residents who have moved into the new low-density luxury properties have a completely different consumption structure from the original locals.
随着上海市中心区域的大拆大建,老上海人在居住条件获得改善后也感叹,讲上海话的都到外环以外了,讲普通话的在中环内,而讲外国话的才是内环内的主人。
这些改变是否会改变上海这座城市的建筑整体外观?是否会改变这座城市的整体氛围和文化格局?这恐怕会在今后几十年中逐步显现。
As large-scale demolition and reconstruction take place in Shanghai’s central urban areas, long-term Shanghai residents, while acknowledging the improvement in their living conditions, also sigh with emotion: “Those who speak Shanghainese have moved beyond the Outer Ring Road, those who speak Mandarin live within the Middle Ring Road, and those who speak foreign languages are the ‘owners’ of the Inner Ring Road.”
Will these changes alter the overall architectural appearance of Shanghai? Will they transform the city’s overall atmosphere and cultural pattern? Such impacts will presumably unfold gradually over the next few decades.
在复兴东路周边我还写过:老城厢的古老秘境~梓园、#老寿眼中的上海#惜别老西门、#老寿带你弄堂游#梦花街79号佳庐及佳志里、匡居-梦花街的起始端、#老寿带你弄堂游#萱寿里汪家的私宅。